The (Not So) Exciting Stories Of My Adventures In The Japanese Countryside...

"If we are always arriving and departing, it is also true that we are eternally anchored. One's destination is never a place but rather a new way of looking at things." -Henry Miller

Saturday, April 29, 2006

Argh!!! I just can't live in a world where the language works like this:

= みせ = store/shop/place of business

Fine. Easy. No problem...thats a basic yon-kyuu level kanji.

But this?

書店 = しょてん = bookstore
and

本店 = ほんてん = head office

Eh?

Oh, and be careful not to confuse 書店 with 商店 (pronounced "しょうてん" - notice the extra う) which means "a shop".

You said it, not me

Something about this made me smile. Anyway, its a good example of how to use 自分 correctly.

日本人は自分の国の文化をユニークだと思いっている。
The Japanese think that their country's culture is unique.

自分= じぶん= "a reflexive pronoun that refers back to a human subject with whom the speaker is emphasizing" (-A Dictionary of Basic Japanese Grammar)

For Cindy...

Alright, alright...I know I am probably wearing you all out with this ongoing thread about Vladimir Vysotsky. But this post is especially for Ms. Stong.

Go to this website:
http://www.kulichki.com/vv/pesni/vdol-obryva-po-nad.html

On the left (in Russian) listen to the audio (Аудио)that accompanies the poem. The second version is best.

Recognize it? Its the song from the movie "White Nights", specifically the scene where Mikhail Baryshnikov performs the impromptu dance on the stage of the Bolshoi Theatre. And I just know how you are about that movie (!) so I thought you might want to have access to the song. It wasn't included on the soundtrack.

Enjoy!

Wednesday, April 26, 2006

Constructing a Japanese-style house

家を建てる。
(うち を たてる)


On a walk through Kucho I had the opportunity to watch this enormous, traditional style house being built. Lest you had any doubts about what a total geek I am, let me confirm it for you now: I thought the process was really, really cool. Honestly, I never gave much thought to how these buildings come to fruition, or what materials are used, but now I think they may be the most eco-friendly constructions ever.

I'm not sure my photo does this justice. The detail in this natural wood is beautiful. I haven't seen many house in Ikata with this kind of investment in ornamentation. I suspect this house costs a fortune!




If you are interested, check out this link for a little information about Japanese timberframe houses. http://www.rothteien.com/landing/timberframe.htm

The Kanji 用

今日の日本語の新漢字は "用" だ。 用の意味は "use/usage/business" だ。 発音は"よう" と言う。

たとえば:

(1) 用いる = もちいる = to use
(2) 使用する = しようする = to use
(3) 利用者 = りようしゃ = user
(4) 用事 = ようじ = business


用を思い出した。 I've just remembered I have something to do.

その日は用がある。I have something to do that day.

私にご用でしょうか。Did you want me?

Tuesday, April 25, 2006

こんぴら 歌舞伎 (Konpira Kabuki) in Kagawa-ken

What a busy weekend! I spent Friday in Matsuyama city practicing for my 運転 免許 試験.

運転 = うんてん = driving
免許 = めんきょ = license
試験 = しけん = test

The highlight of my day was bumping into a good friend who shall remain nameless (because she was trying to lie low that weekend). After a much-needed afternoon of great conversation at an outdoor cafe, I made the long journey back to Ikata Town (a note to my friend - I kept my ears open for those "sniffy sounds" on the train but fortunately heard none). I had a few short hours to clean up my apartment and pack before taking off for Kagawa-ken the following morning.

The trip was excellent.
The women I traveled with had me in stitches the entire time. Three are sisters and the fourth is a long-time friend so the weekend felt very comfortable and relaxed. Apparently the area is famous for delicious and cheap udon (noodles) and each woman had done her research as to which would be the best to eat. We ranked potential choices based on a number of criteria including the shop's proximity to our inn, its price, and how hot the chef was reputed to be. In the end the hotness factor far exceeded the others and we traveled out of our way to eat at a shop where the owner was said to be a bodybuilder.

After gorging on udon and tempura we set out for the real purpose of out trip - Kabuki. Here are some pictures of the Konpira Kabukiza (theatre). Because Kabuki can only be seen three weeks out of the year here, there was a real buzz among the crowd and a feeling of that something very special was about to happen. Fireworks were set off prior to the show. Strangers in line engaged in casual chit-chat as they waited to enter the theatre (yes, I admit, that kind of surprised me). I couldn't wait for the performance to begin!

I was lucky I took these photos outside of the theater several hours before the show started
because it became really crowded later...


I must say that I enjoyed Kabuki very much and therefore continue my romance with the Japanese performing arts, finding yet another expensive outlet for my intellectual curiousity. Hmm...if I don't make it to Russia this summer I may have to plan a trip within Japan...perhaps Kabuki in Tokyo and then some Sumo (where ever the summer basho is) - anyone interested in joining me?
Oh, I almost forgot. My friends finally managed to get me into an onsen (public bath/spa). They were really sweet and for my "onsen debut" they started me off simply - we just visited the onsen inside our ryokan. There was some talk about having our next trip in Kyushu, a kind of onsen tour. I'll keep you posted.

On the final day of our trip we prepared to climb 1,000 steps and battle the elements (yet more rain) to visit the famous Konpira temple (I recommend going if you are there). Before that, however, we took a slight detour to become "Kabuki groupies". Toshiko had discovered that some of the performers would make an appearance outside the theater (making mochi). Hoping for even just a small glimpse of Ichikawa Ebizo (pictured below in costume), who we all agreed is devilishly handsome, we ran (!) to back to the theatre to watch.
ざんねん! いません でした!

Ichikawa, Ebizo

We sat in a box like this.

And finally, here is a photo from one of the gardens at the temple. It makes a lovely screensaver on my laptop.

Monday, April 24, 2006

Calling all students of the Japanese language...I need your help!

How do you say...

"Bring it, Bitch!"

...in Japanese?

Oh yeah, and is there any particular gesture I should use?

Wednesday, April 19, 2006

Владимир Высоцкий

Recently I posted a poem that I adore by Vladmir Vysotsky. At that time I wasn't sure if the poem was written by the Vladimir Vysotsky but have just verified that it was. So...for those of you who are not familiar with his work, here are some links:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vladimir_Vysotsky
http://www.kulichki.com/vv/eng/

And please go here for audio clips (really, good stuff!):
http://www.geocities.com/athens/7762/vysotsky.html

Monday, April 17, 2006

Haru Matsuri - More Kagura - in Kucho


I am completely obstinate. Sunday, after having barely recovered from another sleepless night (don't feel sorry for me...I was up all night at the matsuri in Yawatahama) I set out w/Josh for the Kucho area of Ikata to observe Haru Matsuri (Spring Festival) and yes, more Kagura dancing. In true Ikata fashion the logistics were absurdly messy...no one had any idea what time the event started...the shop in in my town ran out of film for my camera...there were no available bus options to get there. Since I am momentarily sans vehicle, and Kucho へ 行く 道 is reeeally mountainous, we ended up taking a taxi. So you can imagine my disappointment when we arrived to an empty shrine only to be told that the festival was rescheduled for the following day - a Monday, nonetheless. We were able to contemplate our bad luck during the long walk home.

Fortunately, my co-workers are really cool and allowed me to take a last-minute nenkyu (vacation day) this morning. I even managed to snag a video camera from the A/V room which is great because Kagura is something that really needs to be captured in a more dynamic format than photograph. So, after depleting the last of my financial reserves (my "mad" money for the unexpected) I grabbed another cab and headed back out to Kucho. The performance was amazing (below are some photographs)! And this time I was lucky, two fellows from the community kindly picked me up on the expressway and dropped me back off in Minatoura.


This dance (above) is my favorite. The perfomer executes a series of impressive backward rolls while balancing a tray in palm of each hand (the tray lies flat, he doesn't use his fingers to clutch it). He contorts in such a way as to keep the trays from falling while he is rolling.

This little guy battled the oni - and won!






I LOVE THIS PHOTO!!! (below)






Hashira Matsu Shinji

There are times when I reach a moment of clarity and all the madness of my life in Japan seems completely worth it, and I am so thoroughly inspired to learn more about this culture, and I remember exactly why I am here.

Hashira Matsu Shinji was one such seminal moment.

I first attended this festival last year thanks to the exhaustive research efforts of a friend who tracked down information about this little-known matsuri. Here is the brief overview he circulated this year to fellow ALTs:
"In a nutshell, with details left out, expect the following:

When we arrive, men from the town should be dragging the dressed 22 meter long tree trunk through town to a dammed up river canal. The guys grab people and throw them into the river (they are courteous about it, and make sure the people they toss in divest themselves of anything that could be damaged or lost). If I remember correctly, they dunk the tree trunk in the river as well.

After this, they drag the trunk across highway 378, stopping traffic in both directions, and huck it over a guardrail into the sea, about 10 meters below. Men jump in after the tree, and swim it up to the mouth of the river, then drag it up to the shrine, where they decorate it a bit, put on a rope ladder, and replant the tree in the ground, standing up. There's a break at this point.

The evening's events start up around 6, with ushi-oni and 5 deer dancing. Then the kagura (a type of shinto-related dance, some dances use swords, others are more theater than dance, yet others are semi-acrobatic, many dances star masked demons) starts up. I have seen a lot of kagura, and the performances at this festival were pretty good. I also dug the music- very hypnotic drum, flute, and cymbals. Sounds more like santaria or voodoo music than Japanese stuff. I taped it last year, and will be taping it again this year.

The climax comes around midnight, with a fiery acrobatic finale.

This is not a huge festival as far as spectator turnout is concerned, and it isn't even that well known within Yawatahama. But that's typical of events like this. To me, this type of non-commercial, community festival really captures the spririt of a "matsuri". Not to mention that performances of this kind- as well as fire-purification/ religious-magical fire prevention festivals- aren't all that common in Ehime."
This year we were rained out for the early part of the festival but still managed to see the dancing. At midnight the dancers left the shrine to begin the finale. A bonfire was lit. Against the background of the relentless percussion one fearless dancer climbed the twenty-two meter tree with a torch tied to his back. After cutting off the top portion of the tree and tossing it (along with the torch) into the fire below, he descended to the grown via a long rope that was twined between the top of the tree and the shrine. He crawled along this rope at an alarming height with nothing to catch him should he fall. The effect was quite dramatic and his motion resembled that of a spider moving slowly along its web (hence the nickname for this type of Kagura -"spider dance").










Monday, April 10, 2006

More Cherry Blossom Photos...and a Few From the Spring Festival in Matsuyama Too

I know, I know...I promised an explanation about "Hanami" in a previous post, but I just haven't had to time to sit down and write anything more meaningful then "People take walks with friends/family and have picnics under the cherry trees." So here are some pictures of people taking walks with friends/family and having picnics under the cherry trees. Sorry, it'll just have to do for now.

Please notice the funny picture of the pigeon enjoying the cherry blossoms. It was so cute! I watched this pigeon amble leisurely along the sakura path, taking in the spectacular views, for a good six minutes before a noisy group of picnic-ers startled it.

There are also a few photos of Haru Matsuri in Matsuyama city too.










Monday, April 03, 2006

O-Hinna Matsuri





Today I went to a Doll's Festival (O-Hinna Matsuri) in the Maana area of Yawatahama. Doll's festival is a holiday celebrating the health/happiness of the family's female children. The dolls are quite expensive and are traditionally given to the girl by her grandparents when she is a baby. My friends told me that although the actual holiday is celebrated in March, the dolls usually remain on display in the household until the first week of April. After the 3rd the display is promptly dismantled and the dolls are returned to storage until next year.

It is important to remove the display in a timely fashion because of an old superstition which says that the longer it takes to put the dolls away, the longer it will take for the daughter to get married.