The (Not So) Exciting Stories Of My Adventures In The Japanese Countryside...

"If we are always arriving and departing, it is also true that we are eternally anchored. One's destination is never a place but rather a new way of looking at things." -Henry Miller

Wednesday, August 30, 2006

Too Funny...



Someone in the teachers' office just asked me to vote for my favorite of four inspirational quotes. The quote with the most votes will be embroidered into our team's t-shirts (to be worn in our upcoming sports competition).

The pre-selected quotes were selected from:

(1) Benjamin Franklin

(2) Descartes

(3) Mother Teresa

(4) HENRY ROLLINS!!! (Ehhh????)

I found this webpage which has some quotes from Rollins:

http://www.comeinandburn.com/quotes.htm

If you don't know who he is, click here to learn about Henry Rollins:
http://www.comeinandburn.com/archive/hqmay97.htm (an interview)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_Rollins (basic biography)

Regardless of whether you know about the Rollins Band or not, I highly recommend you click here to check out this incredibly hot photo (no worries, its safe for the office):

http://dropd.com/issue/59/RollinsBand/rollins2.jpg

Monday, August 28, 2006

A Few Quick Photos...

Well, I had another wonderful and busy week. Yet again I found myself in Kyushu, this time in Usuki to see "Himatsuri" (Fire Festival). Here are some pictures for your viewing pleasure.

Umm, there's a lot going on here recently, all good, but things are very, very busy. When I get a chance I'll write an update on all the details (soon, I hope). In the meantime, please forgive me if communication lags a bit. I really will get on top of emails, blog, and calls again soon!

PS - These pictures are in reverse order, starting from evening and moving to morning. Sorry, my blogger was acting a little wierd...


These Buddhas are carved into the mountainside (landscape view in a photo below)

One of many fires along the mountain path

All those little glittering lights are individual fires...hope this gives you some idea of the size/scope of the festival

A volunteer wearing happi manages the fire...

Lanscape view of some Buddhas carved into the mountainside

Our gang and the Kadota extended family, Yumi's family house in Oita-ken

Interior, cave
Waterfall, entrance to cave
Stone Bridge, Oita-ken


Left to Right: Yumi, Kai, Ms. Shimauchi, Andrea, Aaron on the ferry to Kyushu




Friday, August 25, 2006

Many Vigorous Earth Men Jump Straight Up Near ---.

Aww, man! It just doesn't sound the same without "Pluto".

Tuesday, August 22, 2006

ARGH!!! And The Application Process Drags On...


To apply, or not to apply, that is the question...

Actually, I may make a defacto decision not to apply to graduate school this year just because I can't seem to make any real progress on my application. I'm a month behind where I hoped to be in terms of pulling everything together. And I've lost complete control of my personal statement - it just keeps growing and growing (you might be in trouble when, on paragraph 53, you find that your footnotes need footnotes). Unfortunately, my personal statement now outweighs my writing sample (the most important part of the application) by a ratio of 4:1. Believe me folks, my life isn't exciting enough to warrant 53 paragraphs.

There are two major obstacles impeding the process for me:

(1) I fear that my writing sample (college thesis)- now almost 8 years old - isn't substantial enough to meet the competition. For example, how's my 25 page paper going to stand up to a Master's thesis from the University of Chicago? Access to literature is problematic here in the countryside (there is none). And since history is primarily the art of engaging the past through texts (as opposed to material culture, oral tradition, etc.) it is kind of important to demonstrate that I can do that. So, I am currently toying with the idea of pulling together a new piece of research but will seek the advice of professors on this point. Even if I did, is that something I could do before the deadline?

(2) I'm having a hard time clearly articulating all of my research interests. I am, as always, all over the board. This will kill my application! I need to focus, focus, focus. Here's the really short version of what I'd like to study: Regionally I want to study Russia, Japan and China. Thematically, I'm interested in how nations, communities and individuals construct/define nationality, ethnicity and identity. I also want to explore the relationship between history and politics, the role of history in larger society, and the notions of "historical memory" and "historical reconciliation". I am particularly interested in instances where history intersects with diplomacy (these are HUGE issues for Japan and its Asian neighbors right now - take, for example, the controversy surrounding Japanese history textbooks and Chinese/Korean criticisms that Japanese history textbooks downplay its past imperial aggressions; or Chinese interpretations of the Prime Minister's repeated visits to Yasukini Shrine). I'd also like to examine the unique ability of museums to create/perpetuate a dominating historical narrative in society. I find their ambiguity incredibly fascinating (they are at the same time public and private space, intellectual space and political space, and almost always a stage where competing ideas and interpretations battle it out). After obtaining my history degree (about a gazillion years from now!) I'd like to have career-path into research and policy, so to that end I'd also like to get a master's degree in international economics....

Yeah, and this is the abridged version of my interests!

Its going to be a long next two months!!!

Wednesday, August 16, 2006

For All The American ALTs Out There...


http://www.blogthings.com/whatkindofamericanenglishdoyouspeakquiz/

Here are my results:


Your Linguistic Profile:
55% General American English
20% Yankee
15% Dixie
5% Upper Midwestern
5% Midwestern

Monday, August 14, 2006

Speak, Crash and Burn...Then Dance: Some Updates




Wow, its been an entire week since my trip to Kyushu. Time flies, I meant to write about that days ago (sorry about that). So here it goes...

I spent a fabulous weekend with my dear friends Toshiko, Yukiko, and Toshiko's sister. We left Shikoku island at 8am, bringing our car onto the ferry and making a two-hour journey to Kyushu. Our specific destination was Kumamoto prefecture, home of the famous "Kurokawa Onsen". For those of you who haven't yet experienced Japanese onsen, I highly recommend you go. Here is a brief explanation from wikipedia:


Ideally, they should be outdoors (though many are indoors), use naturally hot water directly extracted from a natural volcanic spring, and they are often embellished with (or, in the cheaper varieties, replaced by) a wide variety of extravagant spa baths, artificial waterfalls and saunas. The essential difference between an onsen and a sento (communal bath house) is that the water in an onsen must be volcanic spring in origin, even if reheated, whereas a sento may use ordinary heated water. Onsen water is often thought to have healing powers according to its mineral properties and onsens often have several different baths, each augmented by the addition of different minerals or the composition of the tub.

The most important features of the onsen by far are the water and the bathing facilities, which is why many bathers simply come for an hour or so to soak in the waters even if they do not stay. Probably the next most important issue for Japanese guests is the food; a good onsen inn (or ryokan) will offer what it claims is something special in the way of the evening meal. Because ryokan tend to gently pressure people towards eating their evening meal at set times (e.g. 6pm) the baths are often deserted around this hour of the day; this is a good time to hit the tub. While massage and other services are often offered, they are peripheral.

People often travel to onsen with work colleagues, as the relaxed and open atmosphere helps to break down some of the hierarchical stiffness inherent to Japanese work life. However, most visitors to onsen are not work groups but friends, couples and families. It is not unusual to see a father or mother introducing a small child to the onsen for the first time. Very small children of either sex up to about 8 years old can often be seen in both male and female baths. Mixed-sex bathing is a tradition that persists at onsen in the more rural areas of Japan, although these days there is usually a separate women-only bath in addition to the mixed bath.

You can read more about onsen at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Onsen

After maintaining an intense schedule for a prolonged period of time it was lovely (that one's for you Claud!) to take things slowly. Several hours spent visiting onsen after onsen washed away all the tension from my neck and shoulders. Here is a photo of my favorite onsen in Kurokawa:


Pretty, huh?

Now I just want to clarify this point for any family members who may be reading this back home...yes, you leave your inhibitions - and your clothes! - at the door. The onsen is a bath, not a swimming pool. And if you visit me in Japan, I will try to make you visit one. Its the most relaxing thing ever. For those of you with a little extra time, please visit this link to the Kurokawa website. The information is in Japanese but the pictures are worth looking at. http://www.kurokawaonsen.or.jp/

In short, the trip was awesome...punctuated by only one embarassing moment (which is a surprisingly small amount for me). We stayed in a cute bed-and-breakfast in Kumomoto-ken, deep in the wilderness somewhere. I'm not kidding, we were surrounded entirely by trees and strange animal sounds (the atmosphere is important to the story). So during the evening, while kicking back in the lounge, I happened to see a tiny spider crawling on the wall near my friend's shoulder. Wanting to warn her I pointed in her direction and, interrupting the silence, shouted "Kuma!" Only, I should have said "Kumo!" which means spider. What I said instead ("kuma") means "BEAR!" My poor friend jumped right out of her skin, I must have taken ten years off her life. Oops.

After returning to Ikata, things picked up again quickly. Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday I practiced dancing with a bunch of obachans. We were preparing for the bon-odori dance. Thursday I got my sushi on during a trip to Uwa with friends, there's a really great kaiten zushi place there. Aaron, the new CIR in my town, Junko and I went out for lunch on Saturday, followed by dessert at a delicious patisserie in Ozu and a quick jaunt to Uniqlo where I bought the coolest hat ever . Sunday I visited Yukiko's family in Misaki Town for a few hours and then had dinner at the Shimauchi's place.

Which brings me to today. I'm not sure if I ever mentioned it on this blog but I've been paralyzed for much of my life by two incredibly irrational fears which I hoped to overcome in Japan. I'm really proud to say that I've actually conquered one - my fear of driving (although after a brief terrifying encounter on a narrow road with a bus there may be three gentlemen in Yawatahama/Ikata who have developed a fear of driving with me). But, after making yet another attempt to conquer my #2 - fear of public speaking - by giving what amounted to the most discombobulated 7 minute speech on Ehime AJET EVER (how unprofessional), I'm sorry to report that the fear persists. Basically, whenever I stand up before a crowd I'm overwhelmed by the sound of thunder (or perhaps thats just the rapid beating of my heart?) and I find it nearly impossible to focus my thoughts. I have to really, really concentrate hard on what I am saying or I'll forget everything and babble. And if something changes during the speech/presentation then I lose everything. Its terrible. I'm going to have to join toastmasters or something when I return home. In the meantime, I'll continue to crash and burn in front of my peers in Ehime. Its kind of like practice for my future real job I guess.

I left the Matsuyama meeting today around 2-ish and almost missed my train. I barely made it back to Ikata in enough time to grab my yukata and head on over to Toshiko's house for a quick dinner. I then proceeded to extrapolate both feet out of mouth (where they were steadfastly residing since my speech) and put on my dancing shoes for the O-Bon Odori Dance. Once again I'll borrow a brief explanation from Wikipedia:

O-bon (お盆?) or only Bon (?) is a Japanese Buddhist holiday to honor the departed spirits of one's ancestors. This Buddhist festival has evolved into a family reunion holiday during which people from the big cities return to their home towns and visit and clean their ancestors' graves. Traditionally including a dance festival, it has existed in Japan for more than 500 years. It is held from July 13 (August 13 according to the lunar calendar still observed in many regions) to the 15th ("Welcoming Obon" and "Farewell Obon" respectively) in the eastern part of Japan (Kanto), and in August in the western part. In recent years, however, most parts of Tokyo, and by extension, the media, hold Obon in August to coincide with the summer holiday period. Obon shares some similarities with the predominantly Mexican observance of el Día de los Muertos.

This constitutes only the second time ALL YEAR I've done something well in front of my townspeople (the other was during a visit to an ice-skating rink in which I was the only person in our group who could actually ice skate, thereby eliciting lots of praise and compliments...but I'm not really sure I'm proud of that). It was great, I remembered all the steps including a very difficult one using a baton. Awesome! And now I'm off to bed for some much-needed rest. O-yasumi!


Tuesday, August 08, 2006

What did YOU do this weekend?

I saw this. And a million other things in Kyuushu Island this weekend. Complete details coming soon!

Thursday, August 03, 2006

The Wood Brothers - A Remarkable Band

A few months ago I discovered this terrific blues band. I love them. Check out this link to learn more and hear sample recordings:

http://www.thewoodbrothers.com

Life is back to "normal"


Have you ever been so frazzled that you couldn't string two coherent sentences together? That's how I feel right now. Its been a lo-o-o-o-ng two+ weeks but thankfully things promise to stabilize a bit in the immediate future.

My biggest challenge recently has been a severe lack of private time in which to decompress. I feel completely overexposed in my community. For the past two weeks I was temporarily forced to surrender what little anonymity I do have here for the sake of social and professional obligations. Specifically I've had less than 1 hour of personal time each day for the past twelve. Thats just not enough time for me to regroup. I haven't yet figured out a polite way to say "I need my space!"

And as I write this I can't help but feel a little guilty because my so-called work consisted of a series of all-day enkais, private dinner parties, camping trips, museum tours, outdoor bbq, swimming at the beach, hiking, visiting castles, and shopping in Matsuyama, etc. A brief note to the locals: I have appeared on CATV (local cable channel) at least two or three times recently. Be sure to catch my performance as translator for a traditional Japanese tea ceremony. It was intense - there were twenty-something people in the room and they made the ceremony very, very formal. Now, I've been to many tea ceremonies during my time in Japan (because several of my Japanese friends study it) but, in my humble opinion, this one was a little complicated for beginners. Sure, it was beautiful, but you try telling a fifteen year old American boy that he has to make several apologies and thank you's - IN JAPANESE - before he even lifts the cup of tea. There were also a few funny moments for me during the tea ceremony involving the turning of the cup. For those of you who have never been to tea ceremony, I'll quickly explain. After the host or hostess prepares the tea for you, s/he turns the cup so that the image or design is facing the guest. Then the cup is placed to the side on the floor before you (the guest). You move the cup to the middle space and make a few statements in Japanese (to thank the hostess, to apologize to the guest beside you for drinking tea before they do, etc) The cup is moved again, the host/hostess is thanked once more, then you turn the cup clockwise about two and a half times before drinking the contents. When you return the cup back to the hostess more words are exchanged, there is some bowing, and you have to rotate the cup in reverse order so that the image is now facing the hostess. As you can see, this is all incredibly polite and highly stylized stuff. Anyway, I had to keep myself from chuckling when some of the kids received cups without distinct frontal images. They were so keen on doing it right, but it just became so complicated and there were all these things to say in Japanese...well, I'm afraid I didn't provide the best explanations but it was sweet to see how hard they tried despite my "help". I may suggest to the yakuba folks that they take it down a notch next year.

Highlight of the week: translating tea ceremony (I actually knew what I was doing)

Lowpoint of the week: Kamada-sensei and I doing an impromtu translation of the Japanese fairy tale "Momo Taro" (peach boy) in front of all the international exchange students, the host families, town office heads, and the mayor. Don't ask. It was abysmal.

In short, everything was a total blast but I only regret that I could've enjoyed it more had I not been so fatigued. I mean, this was a kind of fatigue that emanated from within my bones, you know? And I think the majority of my fatigue came not from the language barrier, suprisingly enough, but from a lack of clear communication about my schedule and their expectations of what I needed to do. From what I can gather, I'm not the only one who encountered this challenge. So I'll just leave it at that. For those of you who didn't know, I wasn't involved in any of the international exchange stuff originally. I only became involved at the very last minute when the CIR (international coordinator and translator) had an emergency and went into the hospital (don't worry, he's ok, it was a back injury that got better). I'm sure that all the chaos didn't help matters much.

After all that was finished, I had two back-to-back evenings of late-night dinner parties with various friends in Honai. One even involved karaoke. The fact that one of my friends is really into antiques, combined with a long visit to the Ehime cultural museum earlier that day, allowed me to add a few useful Japanese words to my admittedly limited vocabulary. If you ever have a need for local antique pottery from the Iyo period I'm your woman.

So, tomorrow I'm off to Tabemono Ichiban for a nice welcome party with some of the newly arrived JETs from the Nanyo B area. After that I leave Shikoku Island at 8am Saturday morning with Toshiko, Yukiko, and Toshiko's sister. We are spending the weekend in Kyushu. I'm going to climb Mt. Aso and then hit some onsen (hot water springs). Its probably dangerous to go to the onsen in this extreme heat but I'm willing to take the risk. I hope it will help me work out all the kinks in my shoulders!

More to come later...