The (Not So) Exciting Stories Of My Adventures In The Japanese Countryside...

"If we are always arriving and departing, it is also true that we are eternally anchored. One's destination is never a place but rather a new way of looking at things." -Henry Miller

Wednesday, June 28, 2006

Nagashi Somen


Well, its that time of the year again...somen nagashi time. The restaurant in Honai has re-opened for the season. Last Saturday Shelley, David, Janet and I took the Ikata-mobile up the great mountain for a leisurely afternoon lunch.

"Nigashi" somen refers to the tradition of serving cold noodles in a hallowed-out bamboo trunk. The noodles float down the bamboo shoot and you have to catch them with your chopsticks to eat them. Click here to learn more about somen:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Somen

Here are some photos from our trip. The restaurant is lovely. Theres a river and plenty of wooded walking paths. If anybody from Chicago visits me this summer I promise to take you there!



Crouching Tiger Hidden ALTs

Left: David, Middle: Janet, Right: Shelley

Wednesday, June 21, 2006

Cultural Nuggets


When I was an undergraduate student I took an amazing history methodology course with Professor Steinberg. Our class was discussing the current reading - Ginzburg’s The Cheese and the Worms - when the professor made a comment that really stuck with me. It was something about the thrill of that serendipitous moment when a historian (or anthropologist) stumbles upon a piece of evidence which sheds insight into the broader beliefs/values/practices of a culture group. If you are lucky, it can become the foundation for a much bigger piece of research (a dissertation, a book) and maybe even change the way people think about a particular historical period or people. To make these discoveries requires one part luck and one part skill - that is, keeping your eyes open for clues that would seem insignificant to most. I yearned to make that kind of discovery and vowed to keep my eyes - and my mind - open in the hopes that I wouldn’t miss these clues should the opportunity presented itself...no matter how small or seemingly unimportant the clue might be.

Well, its that last condition which obliges me to write this today. I think I may have encountered my own little “cultural nugget” while working the Ikata -Town Elementary School circuit. Granted, it won’t allow me to reconstruct an entire peasant cosmology like Ginzburg. Nor will it revolutionize the way historians approach the discipline. But it is most certainly an unexpected, consistently repeated (and if I may make a value judgement - slightly disturbing) pattern of behavior.

I present to you the evidence, let’s call it Cultural Artifact A. It’s a small, grey, basically non-descript plush animal. I use during class for warm-up and pass-me games. It’s one of three toys that I use (the others being a small plush goldfish and a small plush penguin).

Cultural Artifact A


I teach approximately 15 elementary school lessons per month. The students range from 1st to 6th grade.

The unexpected, unsolicited response from many students when I pull the stuffed animal out of my bag:

“Ah! Oishiisou!!!”
Translation: “That looks delicious!!!”

Now I’m fairly confident I wouldn’t get this response at home.

My conclusion? Undecided. I'll leave you to interpret as you will...

Thursday, June 15, 2006

The Intensity Factor

If my time in Japan was a reflection, the sign on the mirror through which it was reflected would read "Caution - Things may appear more serious in this mirror than they really are." (Can you follow my hokey car analogy?)

My new term for this phenomenon is the "intensity factor". Lacking any extended opportunities for normal communication I've developed some pretty strange behavior in order to cope. Part of the problem is that I’ve lost much of my self-confidence (that’s a whole other issue) and become rather “gun-shy” when it comes to relating to others. The faltering self-confidence has only been exacerbated by all the communication challenges I regularly encounter in the office. And now I think I've lost my ability to relate to people in any normal way.

For example, every time I talk with friends (or write an email to someone), I completely agonize afterwards that I've said/written the wrong thing. I literally have to resist the temptation to send a follow-up email, or call them back, to apologize or further elaborate what I meant. Sometimes, I find myself censoring or dumbing down what I want to say before it even comes out of my mouth for fear that it will be misunderstood (it often is)-as you can imagine, this sanitized version things is really awful and constricting. I've also developed a tendency to over-analyze, second-guess, or convince myself that I‘ve somehow offended or inconvenienced the person I was speaking with.

The irony of the intensity factor is that it grossly magnifies the importance of everything you see/think/feel while simultaneously leaving you feeling like the most insignificant creature in the world. Its like, you know deep in the back of your mind that the other person probably isn’t stressing that much about what you said or did, yet you expend a great deal of energy in excruciating pain worrying about it. And you sort of punish yourself for being so socially inept and convince yourself that you are the world’s biggest dork and probably shouldn’t really be around other people. But then you realize that - hey, aren’t you kind of assuming that you have a great deal of power over people if you can really cause those kinds of ripples in the social fabric…? Doh! Damned this intensity factor!

For me, I think there are a couple of things about life in Japan that aggravate this problem. First, I’ve realized that it isn’t exactly a level playing field when it comes to friendships. I could go on a big diatribe about being the “other” and all that, but I’ll spare you. Maybe I can sum it up in the following example: I have this friend, she’s really cool. We often hang out and she helps me practice Japanese sometimes. There’s just this one thing - every time she calls me on the telephone, I just can’t seem to end the call. She just goes on and on and on, missing all of my “soft clues“. It was a problem at first, but I grew to accept it. Recently I gave her a call to work out the scheduling of some tentative plans we had. I guess it was an inopportune time because she became really impatient and rushed off the phone very abruptly.

Now I hope I haven’t lost you. I know this phone story isn’t a big deal, but it does underscore a couple of important points:
1) Unlike our friendships at home, I think we are more often at the mercy of whims of our friends here, perhaps because we need them so much more?
2) Even in the closest or most comfortable of relationships, there is always this notion of feeling responsible for “managing” what the other person thinks or feels to the detriment of our own feelings. Because, in a sense, we are always performing even when we are not at work. Another example, my JTE spends 75% of his time looking frazzled, frantic, and basically ignoring me in the office. But during that other 25%, when he is ready to talk to me, I better be ready to go. For if I am fatigued, culture-shocked, over-worked, stressed or otherwise off my game, the impression is going to last a long time. And those impressions are meaningful. They are kind of an instrument of one’s success as an ALT. I get the feeling that if I cared a lot less about this aspect of my job I’d be a much happier person!


The final thing I’m struggling with is the way in which emotion and expression communicates different meanings in Japanese culture as opposed to my own. I know there is a stereotype of the hot-headed, fly-off-the-handle, emotional American which does have its roots in some truth. But the reality is that emotion - joy, anger, if properly utilized, can be a powerful communicative tool in American relationships. But it’s a highly sophisticated, highly nuanced thing and takes a lot of skill and a deep understanding of the situation to do properly. I find myself at a loss to explain this to my Japanese friends and highly embarrassed if I get too expressive in the wrong social situation here. Whereas in American culture it is understood that there is a time to be happy, a time to get angry, etc. I suspect that in Japan it is completely the opposite. An American who exhibit’s emotion (good or bad) is a person who is in control of the situation…a Japanese person who exhibits emotion (good or bad) is a person who has lost control of the situation.

So there you have it. The intensity factor. I’m convinced I will be fodder for any aspiring psychiatrist when I return home…

Friday, June 09, 2006

Ikata Nuclear Power Plant

Apparently this happened on Monday. I didn't even know. I'm going to pray that if ever there was a real emergency somebody would at least knock on my door...

June 06
Nuclear reactor shut down in southern Japan after abnormal noise in moisture separator
TOKYO (AP) _ A nuclear power reactor was shut down in southern Japan on Monday after workers noticed it was making an unusual noise, the plan operator said.
All measuring devices in the central control room of the No. 1 reactor at the Ikata Nuclear Power Plant had been working normally, and there was no radiation leak due to the noise, said Satoshi Sasatani, a spokesman of Shikoku Electric Power Co.
A worker noticed an ``unusual noise'' from the moisture separator at around 9:30 a.m. (0030 GMT), and the company then decided to shut down the reactor to determine the cause, Sasatani said.
The moisture separator is a device that removes excess water from steam used to turn the reactor's turbine, and is then reused to turn the low-pressure turbines.
It was unclear how long the reactor would remain out of service, Sasatani said.
Ikata, located in Ehime prefecture (state) on southern island of Shikoku, is 730 kilometers (453 miles) southwest of Tokyo.

http://spaces.msn.com/degloomy/Blog/cns!C31DBFDF02C7A2AD!146.entry

Wednesday, June 07, 2006

Yet More Christmas Cake...


David recently made a reference about my old "Christmas Cake" post and it set me thinking again.

So, I admit I am feeling a bit suffocated by the social structure here in the countryside. Lately I am very conscious of the values and judgements people make about me based on my nationality, age, gender, hobbies, image, profession, etc. Not all of them are bad, and actually a lot of them attribute me with more credit than I deserve. But all the same, they don't reflect reality.


Before I write specifics, I want to pose some questions to those of you with experience in the Japanese inaka. You can post your answers here or email me privately (as most of you prefer to do)...

1) What, if any, is the biggest change to your behavior since arriving in Japan? Do you view this change as a negative or positive thing?

2) Do you feel that you relate to people of the opposite sex differently than you would at home? In what ways? Do you feel that people here have different expectations of you specifically because you are a man or woman? How? [This is not just a "youngest office girl serves the tea" kind of question, although that is important too. But recently I've talked with some male JETS who have expressed dissatisfaction with the social pressures to be or do certain things just because they are guys. The whole issue is incredibly complicated, I think.]

3) If you were a parent, would you put your children through the Japanese school system? Why or why not?

Thats it for now. I'll post my thoughts about it all in a few days. Thanks!

Tuesday, June 06, 2006

A Few More Photos From Hirota Firefly Fest...

I noticed a lot of traffic to my blog from Canada recently. I'm guessing Janet's friends and family have stopped by to see her photos. If so, welcome! Here are a few more for you all. Enjoy!




The "Ikata Mobile"


I picked up my car keys from the yakuba today. Its official. I've rejoined the driving population.

The car is ugly, tiny, emits a wierd rattling sound from the dashboard, and bears a large Ikata Town logo on the side (so people know exactly where to call to complain about my driving). But its all mine.

The next time it rains, I'm gonna go out. Just because I can.

Shorinji Kenpo



After months and months of "air" training and kata, they finally let me hit something today.

I'm so happy I could cry!

Monday, June 05, 2006

Kimono


I wore kimono for the first time today, for no reason other than the woman who cut may hair last week wanted to play dress up. While I was at her salon she showed me photographs of a student delegation that she styled in kimono. After discovering that I had never tried it, she invited me back today. It was so much fun! But I'm convinced that I will never, ever learn how to to do that by myself. I couldn't believe all the layers and obis and wraps, etc. It was a bit like what I imagine wearing a corset would be like. However I quickly grew accustomed to it.

Of course, I was surprised when she asked me to take a drive to show it off. We stopped at the yakuba (town office), elementary school, post office, and a few other places. Initially I felt self conscious...but you know me, it didn't take much for me to come out of my shell!

Later I became aware of some confusion regarding the reason for the kimono. A rumour passed through town that I got married today, ha ha! Truthfully, people only wear kimono for a few key purposes, marriage being the main one, so I can understand why people thought so. Hopefully I can clarify things soon!

Above: Notice how beautifully the obi (the belt) is wrapped in the back

Below: My blatant plug for her salon! :) Seriously, she's really good at cutting hair. She even studied in Paris...

My friends from the yakuba - look, there ARE some young people in Ikata! Hopefully, they'll all be at my next party...

Sunday, June 04, 2006

Firefly Festival In Hirota Town

I spent Thursday and Friday in the Fifth Circle of Hell, better known as the Matsuyama City Driver's License Center. After two exhausting days trudging through red tape and practicing mind-numbing exercises such as saying "left - back - left - OK" and executing turns while keeping my car exactly 30 cm from the curb and not a 1/4 cm further, I FINALLY passed the test and obtained my Japanese driving license.

Ureshii desu...this is big news!

Afterwards I met Janet for coffee and then it was off to her home in Hirota Town for the remainder of the weekend. We were joined on Saturday by Keri (Tobe) and Dustin and Doreen (Uchiko) and participated in the town's Firefly Festival.

Great weather, delicious food, plenty of beer, wonderful company, music, and a live taiko performance starring none other than Janet herself...what more could one ask for? Here are some photos from the celebration...

Keri (left), Janet (center), Doreen (right) pose in the beer garden

Doreen snapped this photo of me just after she, Janet and I "threw elbows" with the obasans. The white stuff all over my face is mochi flour. Mochi-throwing is a staple at any large Japanese event. The town officials stand on an elevated stage while the crowd gathers below. They throw mochi (a sweet made from pounded Japanese rice) for the audience to catch. And this is where it gets ugly...the mochi usually hits you in the head or body and hurts like a son-of-a-gun with people pushing, shoving, and scrambling to catch it.


Justin and Doreen are kicking back...


...while Janet strikes a pose in her taiko happi - just look at this warrior stance! The entire Hirota taiko group was truly fierce! First we were treated to an adorable performance from the childrens' taiko group. After two pieces the children turned the stage over to the adult group. Janet stood front and center for the first song, impressing us all with her mastery of the taiko drums, zen-like focus, and sheer strength. I must admit, I was a bit relieved that she didn't BREAK THE DRUMSTICK like she did at her last performance! During the second song, the audience was captivated by the groups' leader who led the band through a dazzling ensemble that was one part percussion and one part dance.

Hey David, Will You Marry Me...???



Because I FINALLY got my driver's license!

Hurray!!!